Lesson 8: Basic Sewing & Clothing Repairs - Cheat Sheet
Essential Sewing Tools
Tool | Purpose | Estimated Cost | Priority |
Hand needles | Basic hand sewing | £2-5 for assorted pack | Essential |
Fabric scissors | Cutting fabric cleanly | £8-20 | Essential |
Measuring tape | Taking measurements | £1-3 | Essential |
Straight pins | Temporarily holding fabric | £2-4 | Essential |
Pincushion | Storing pins safely | £2-5 | Medium |
Seam ripper | Removing stitches | £2-5 | Essential |
Thimble | Protecting finger when pushing needle | £2-4 | Medium |
Iron & board | Pressing seams | £20-50 | High |
Thread | Basic colors (black, white, navy, beige) | £1-3 per spool | Essential |
Needle threader | Helps thread needles | £1-2 | Medium |
Fabric marker | Marking fabric for alterations | £3-6 | Medium |
Thread Types Guide
Thread Type | Best Uses | Characteristics | Notes |
All-purpose polyester | Most repairs, all fabrics | Strong, flexible, colorfast | Best general-purpose thread |
Cotton | Natural fabrics, quilting | Less stretch, natural | Use on cotton, linen, rayon |
Heavy-duty/upholstery | Denim, canvas, outdoor items | Very strong, thick | For heavy fabrics, visible stitching |
Silk | Delicate fabrics, fine work | Smooth, strong for weight | Expensive, use on silk, wool |
Invisible/monofilament | Hems, appliqué | Nearly invisible | Can be stiff, use where thread should disappear |
Embroidery | Decorative work | Glossy, colorful | Not for structural seams |
Needle Types Guide
Needle Type | Size Range | Best For | Notes |
Sharps | 1-12 (larger number = smaller needle) | General purpose | Good all-around hand sewing needle |
Betweens | 1-12 | Detailed handwork, quilting | Shorter than sharps |
Embroidery/crewel | 1-12 | Embroidery, decorative work | Longer eye for thicker threads |
Darning | 1-9 | Mending holes | Long with large eye |
Tapestry | 13-28 | Canvas work, heavy fabrics | Blunt tip, large eye |
Leather | 1-5 | Leather, suede | Triangular point to pierce leather |
Basic Hand Stitches
Stitch | Best Uses | Technique | Strength |
Running stitch | Basting, gathering, simple seams | In and out at regular intervals | Low |
Backstitch | Secure seams, repair tears | One stitch back, two stitches forward | High |
Slip stitch | Invisible hems, closing openings | Hidden stitch between folded edges | Medium |
Blanket/buttonhole stitch | Finishing edges, buttonholes | Loop over edge with regular spacing | High |
Whipstitch | Joining two pieces, finishing edges | Diagonal stitches over edge | Medium |
Ladder stitch | Invisible seam closure | Hidden stitch between folded edges | Medium |
Darning stitch | Repairing holes | Weaving thread back and forth | Medium |
Button Types and Attachment
Button Type | Common Uses | Attachment Method | Thread Needed |
Flat (2-hole) | Shirts, light garments | Parallel or crossed stitches | Regular |
Flat (4-hole) | Shirts, trousers, coats | Parallel, crossed, or star pattern | Regular |
Shank | Coats, heavy fabrics | Through shank only | Regular |
Covered | Formal wear, decorative | Through shank or holes | Match covering |
Snap/press stud | No-show closures | Sewn through holes in rim | Strong |
Toggle | Coats, decorative | Through holes or loop | Heavy-duty |
Common Clothing Repairs
Repair Type | Difficulty | Tools Needed | Technique |
Replace button | Easy | Needle, thread, scissors | Match thread to garment, secure with 6-8 passes |
Mend seam | Easy | Needle, thread, scissors | Use backstitch, match original seam allowance |
Fix hem | Easy-Medium | Needle, thread, iron | Press first, use slip stitch for invisible repair |
Patch hole | Medium | Patch fabric, needle, thread | Cut patch larger than hole, secure with whipstitch |
Darn hole | Medium | Darning needle, thread | Create “weave” of thread to fill hole |
Fix zipper | Medium-Hard | Pliers, needle, thread | Depends on issue (stuck, missing teeth, separated) |
Replace zipper | Hard | Seam ripper, zipper, pins | Remove old zipper, baste new one, stitch in place |
Hemming Guide
Garment | Recommended Hem Type | Width | Stitch Type |
Trousers | Double fold | 3-4 cm | Slip stitch or machine |
Jeans | Original hem or double fold | 1-2 cm | Topstitch or machine |
Skirt/dress (straight) | Double fold | 3-5 cm | Slip stitch |
Skirt/dress (full) | Narrow hem or bias binding | 1-2 cm | Slip stitch or machine |
Sleeves | Double fold | 2-3 cm | Slip stitch |
T-shirts/knits | Single fold | 1-2 cm | Twin needle or zigzag |
Fabric Types and Handling
Fabric | Characteristics | Needle Type | Thread Type | Special Handling |
Cotton | Natural, breathable, easy to work with | Universal | All-purpose or cotton | Pre-wash to prevent shrinkage |
Linen | Natural, strong, wrinkles easily | Universal | All-purpose or cotton | Press while damp |
Wool | Natural, warm, can felt | Universal or ballpoint | All-purpose | Steam rather than iron directly |
Silk | Natural, delicate, slippery | Fine | Silk or fine polyester | Use fine pins, press on low heat |
Polyester | Synthetic, durable, wrinkle-resistant | Universal | All-purpose polyester | Can melt under high heat |
Denim | Heavy cotton twill, durable | Denim/jeans | Heavy-duty | Use longer stitches, may need thimble |
Jersey/T-shirt | Stretchy knit | Ballpoint/jersey | All-purpose polyester | Avoid stretching while sewing |
Leather/suede | Animal hide, no fraying | Leather | Heavy-duty polyester | Use clips not pins, special needle |
Stain Removal Quick Guide
Stain Type | Fresh Treatment | Set Stain Treatment | What to Avoid |
Blood | Cold water rinse | Hydrogen peroxide, enzymatic cleaner | Hot water (sets protein) |
Grease/oil | Dish soap, chalk powder | Solvent cleaner, dish soap | Rubbing (spreads stain) |
Ink (ballpoint) | Alcohol, hairspray | Alcohol, commercial remover | Rubbing, water first |
Red wine | Salt, club soda, white wine | Oxi cleaner, enzyme treatment | Hot water, soap initially |
Coffee/tea | Cold water rinse | Vinegar solution, enzyme cleaner | Hot water initially |
Grass | Enzyme pre-wash | Alcohol, enzyme cleaner | Letting dry completely |
Sweat | Vinegar solution | Baking soda paste, enzyme cleaner | Bleach on colors |
Clothing Storage Tips
Item | Storage Method | Protection | Maintenance |
Woolens | Folded in drawer with cedar | Moth repellent, breathable bag | Air occasionally |
Formal wear | Hung with padded hanger | Breathable garment bag | Air before storing |
T-shirts | Folded in drawer | None needed | Rotate stack occasionally |
Jeans/trousers | Hung by waistband or folded | None needed | Fold on different lines |
Dresses/skirts | Hung with appropriate hanger | Breathable cover for delicate items | Rotate position in closet |
Seasonal items | Clean, then store in breathable container | Cedar, lavender, acid-free tissue | Air before wearing again |
Professional vs. DIY Decision Guide
Repair/Alteration | DIY Appropriate? | Skill Level | When to Seek Professional Help |
Button replacement | Yes | Beginner | Never |
Hem adjustment | Yes | Beginner-Intermediate | For lined garments, formal wear |
Simple tear repair | Yes | Beginner | For expensive fabrics, visible areas |
Zipper replacement | Maybe | Intermediate | For centered zippers, formal wear |
Taking in/letting out | Maybe | Intermediate-Advanced | For structured garments, suits |
Patches and darning | Yes | Beginner-Intermediate | For expensive items if visible repair |
Waistband adjustment | Maybe | Advanced | For most trousers unless simple elastic |
Sleeve shortening | Maybe | Advanced | For lined sleeves, formal wear |